# Scrumulous!

Matt's Food Blog

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## Smoked Eel Parfait

After all my gelatin mysteries were solved I managed to give the smoked eel parfait a go. Tasted great and it turned out the technique suggested in the Bentley book worked a treat.

PVC plumbing pipes are used as molds like so (see pics below): cut your PVC pipe to the required length (for this I used 22mm pipe and cut it to 7cm lengths), then cut out a rectangle of acetate sheet large enough to be rolled into a tube that will fit inside the pipe and protrude a couple of centimetres (in my case these were 9cm by 7cm) – once the acetate is inside the PVC pipe cover the flush end with cling film and tape secure. The pipe thingies can now be used as molds: fill just up to the end of the pipe – when your filling is set just pull out the acetate and it will unfold from your perfect little cylinder of loveliness.

For this dish the eel was then wrapped in celery jelly which had its green colour boosted by spinach – I served it with a rhubarb coulis. The eel parfait was set with gelatin and kappa carrageenan, it tasted beautifully but subtly of the smoked eel – I didn’t get too much of the celery but it certainly looked great.

## Swine Haus!

Today was spent making a little house for the pig leg which has nearly finished its stint in the fridge – we’ll hang it in its little house from a tree for the drying to take place. Still have to pop the chicken wire on to protect the ham – but I think he’ll be nice and cosy in his wee haus.

## Holy Crêpe!

Well I know it’s puerile and obvious – but I still like crêpe based wordplay. This week we bought a cheap crepe maker – and I simply don’t know how I tolerated my empty crêpe-less life before. The thing is phenomenal (it’s a Breville VTP130 btw and ours cost £28). So far we’ve had cheese, cheese ham and pineapple, roast chicken with peas and mornay sauce – as well as lots of sweet crepes with fruits and maple syrup and golden syrup etc – totally and utterly scrumulous.

The recipe is loosely that from Larousse:

250g plain flour
500ml milk
3 large eggs
pinch of salt
1 tbsp vanilla sugar (optional)
pepper (optional)
20g butter

Sift the flour and add a pinch of salt (and the vanilla sugar for a sweet crêpe – for a savoury mix add some more salt and pepper to taste); whisk together milk and eggs and then whisk the liquid into the flour mixture. Leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours (this allows the flour to absorb moisture fully – resulting in a softer crêpe, according to Harold McGee). Before serving melt the butter and allow to cool, then sieve the mixture to get rid of lumps and fold in the butter. Then make delicious things.

## Gelatin Conversion Confusion

My friend Tom’s birthday looms, and to celebrate he’s organising a soirée. We’ll be cooking for about 12, more of that anon. One of the dishes I’m keen to try is from Brent Savage’s Bentley book. I’ve had it for a while and despite lots of great sounding stuff contained therein, I haven’t actually tried any of the recipes. I’ve long been tempted by the exquisite sounding ‘Smoked Eel Parfait with White Soy Dressing and Seaweed'; not only because of how I imagine it tastes: also on account of how cool the dish looks. The eel parfait is set in a cylinder shape, then wrapped in a thin film of celery jelly – looks like a liquorice allsort.

So I have my smoked eel – courtesy of Sawyers in Belfast (Lough Neagh smoked eel is a big deal it turns out – though most of it is exported – see here and here for interesting articles). I’ve also ordered some new carrageenans from Cream Supplies – who do a range of modernist ingredients. So really all to do was to get going with practicing the recipe – that’s where I hit the snag.

The book calls for two sheets of titanium strength gelatin. Well – I only have platinum strength, and it turns out that finding out how to convert leaf gelatin amounts according to class is more tricky to work out than I would have thought.

Gelatin strength is measured by bloom – the higher the bloom value the greater the gelling strength (or the less gelatin required to set the same amount of liquid). Gelatin leaves (or sheets) are sold classed as titanium, bronze, silver, gold and platinum. Additionally different leaves have different weights, and different manufacturers use slightly different bloom strengths. So to convert a recipe that calls for a certain number of sheets of gelatin of a certain type for use with another type of gelatin you need to know: 1) the weight per leaf of each type of gelatin, 2) the bloom strength of each type and lastly, a conversion formula. You will by now appreciate that this takes a little effort to work out.

Cue the fabulous Texture – A Hydrocolloid Recipe Collection which is put together by Martin Lersch at his Kymos blog, which has amongst it’s extremely informative pages a chart of gelatin leaves, the range of their bloom strengths, and a conversion formula. Unfortunately titanium strength gelatin is not included, though most sources that I can find suggest it’s around 100 bloom.

[latexpage]
Here’s the formula suggested in Texture: $Mass B = \ Mass A (\frac{Bloom Strength A}{Bloom Strength B})$, where Mass B refers to the mass of the leaves you have, Mass A to that of the leaves in the recipe, and similarly Bloom Strength B refers to the bloom strength of the leaves you’re using etc.

Some sites suggest applying a square root to the fraction: $Mass B = \ Mass A \sqrt(\frac{Bloom Strength A}{Bloom Strength B})$ however Martin Lersch suggests the former works better for the bloom strengths he supplies. So putting it together is a bit of a hotchpotch, I’ll go with his initially as he’s clearly a legend given how comprehensive Texture is (see below for a table of info re different bloom strengths etc).

The smoked eel parfait recipe calls for two sheets of titanium strength gelatin, which earlier in the book he explains weigh 5 grams each. So putting all that together using our formula and the table below suggests the weight of platinum gelatin we need is $\ 10(\frac{100}{240})$ which is 4.2, and as the platinumn sheets weigh 1.7 grams that means we need 2.5 sheets: easy!

Leaf TypeBloom StrengthGrams/leaf
Titanium1005
Bronze125-1553.3
Silver1602.5
Gold190-2202.0
Platinum135-2651.7

## Deep Fried Sous Vide Egg Yolks

Having previously mucked around with using the water bath to cook eggs (mostly as a result of reading Under Pressure by Thomas Keller) I was thinking about how delicious the yolks turn out: creamy and with a beautiful texture – almost like a thick lemon curd. I’d been enjoying using panko for deep frying various things over Christmas and wondered about how to deep fry the yolks this way. Seattle Food Geek had beaten me to it with this post. They turned out beautifully and now I want to include them in everything I make, the acidity from the squeeze of lemon really boosts the flavours – scrumulous.

## Piggy Wiggy Woo – First Blood

Here’s the amount of liquid that has come out of piggy in just 24 hours! 407 grams.

Update: 27 Jan, after another 4 days there’s further 597 grams!

## Piggy Wiggy Woo

So today was day one of the first Scrumulous attempt to dry cure a ham. The idea is to have some cured meats ready for June, the shortest time that one can successfully complete the process is 4-5 months so we’re cutting it a bit fine. Having scoured the web and the various books I have which give recipes for parma type ham I settled on the really quite simple recipe from Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn’s now classic book Charcuterie, with some adaptions.

Their recipe uses solely cooking salt to cure the meat – I added some nitrite/nitrate curing salt and some phosphates. The curing salts preserve colour and flavour and helps combat the likelihood of baddies making their home in the meat. The phosphates promote the activity of the salt and encourage the development of the cured texture. I used the suggested scaling from Modernist Cuisine to guide the amount of phosphate (0.2% of the weight of the meat). For the amount of Cure number 2 (the nitrite salt I used) I use the scaling from the Ruhlman recipe for Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham. So that meant I rubbed the (boned out) leg with a mature containing: 1.6 Kg salt, 350g Cure 2 and 17 grams of the polyphosphate mixture I have.

All very exciting, the process of rubbing the leg with the mixture being oddly pleasurable. I’ve popped it in a plastic container and placed some weights atop. Over the next 16 days (one day for each 500g of piggy leg) it will live in the fridge and I’ll be regularly draining it of all the liquid that gathers and keeping an eye to ensure all of the meat remains covered with a layer of salt. I’ll probably replace the cure mix once half way through too.

People take years to perfect this kind of process so, being uncharted territory as it is, we can but wait and see how it all goes…

Curing salts can be ordered from DesignaSausage and Sausagemaking.org (who also supply the phosphates)

## Scrumulous Returns…

Well what a disgraceful show that was. Although I imagine typical of nascent bloggers. An initial display of enthusiasm – giving way to apathy in the extreme. It’s been well over a year since the last Scrumulous post – however all things culinary have continued apace at Scrumulous central. My new resolve to get the blog back up and running should have plenty of material to get started with, including the arrival of Modernist Cuisine (I love that book) and the rather delicious badger bourguignon (with sous vide badger loin).

There’s several food related events to come this year which should provide significant challenges – more of that later. Earlier today I salted a leg of pork as the first step towards making prosciutto type ham so that seems like a good place to start.

## Butternut Squash Soup

I’ve always been somewhat unimpressed by butternut squash. But I’ve had my squash-ism challenged a couple of times recently.

Several weeks ago I attempted a recipe from the Alinea book, the mighty, beautiful, intimidating and accomplished tome from Grant Achatz, of Alinea in Chicago. The dish: ‘KUROGE WAGYU’ (not wagyu in my case!) had as one of its (only 10) components slices of squash (I used butternut instead of the recipes acorn variety). The squash was sous vide-ed in rendered beef fat, and then spread with a smoked paprika yoghurt glaze, and grilled. I just loved this, and have since served a variation as an amuse bouche (without the glaze and some dehydrated red pepper and garlic crisp – also from the Alinea recipe). I also used butter instead of the beef fat for that one. The controlled poach of the sous vide allows the texture of the squash to be perfectly balanced throughout – not at all mushy but succumbs immediately to the first bite. And the buttery sweet taste worked beautifully with both the paprika and then later with the pepper and garlic.

Notes: 5

My second butternut squash renaissance moment occurred last week when I eventually got ’round to making Heston Blumenthal’s recipe for soup of said gourd. It’s from his first book: Family Food, which is a great book aimed at inspiring families to get involved in the kitchen together and to let kids begin to enjoy making and thinking about food. The soup’s described in glowing terms in the book, and the recipe can be found here (saving me the job of typing it in – hoora!).

The soup was easy to make and tasted great, I had some lardons in the fridge and so grilled them, made some croûtons and roasted some cubes of squash as well – and added some shaved parmesan as suggested, which meant for a really rich and luxurious soup – scrumulous.

M